Day 26: Tuesday 14 September 2010 – A day in Tozeur
An early start – Richard coughing and wheezing with a cold, Bronnie feeling physically peculiar, with Martin trying to keep the team together in the hope of some 4x4 practice in the dunes.
After a strong ‘Tunisienne’ coffee amidst the white clad locals, we headed towards where we thought the dunes were, landing up in the vast, very marshy salt pans. Rich tried to do a u-turn on the salt pans and sank instantly and deeply into the very soft, salty earth. Boudie to the rescue winching Tasca out, we turned around only for Boudie to spin her tyres in the salty sand. Lesson learnt, we headed for more solid sand and found some “moguls” to play on.
This then the next 4x4 sand lesson for Bron, who took to the challenge and loved the feeling of using the vehicle to do what it was designed to do. Much dust was generated all round, winching and towing of both vehicles as one by one we got stuck at various points. Boys, and girls with their toys – these boys, and girl, were doing what they came here to do.
Back in town we went directly to the cave-bar we’d been to the night before to purchase a bottle of red wine, and quaffed a couple of icy beers in the very cool cave interior – anything to escape the heat of the day – now 43 degrees.
Dinner was taken at a local Tunisienne restaurant, recommended by a local. Ageau a la Galgoulette served in pottery bowl which had been sealed by mashed potatoe to ensure the most tender lamb and veggies – simply more-ish.
Day 25: Monday 13 September 2010 – Tunisia: Megda
A vivid linear sunrise, spread tight across the vast desert-scape, lured us to an early start at 05h00. Whilst busy packing up tents etc., we were once again surprised by the seemingly instantaneous arrival of a nomadic horseman, sporting a poncho and sombrero on a white mare! On closer inspection, his appearance confirmed his nomadic life style. It was quite an amazing incidence so early in the day. He greeted us, scrutinised our camp and headed back in the direction from which he had come, clearly to report to the village elders.
Later, in conversation with Mike (of Greyton), we were offered advice based on his many years of working in Africa - that being, to avoid at all costs, trying to be ‘invisible’ (or independent) but rather to always seek out the ‘elders’ in a village before setting up camp. The advice was d
uly discussed and agreed on unanimously for all future ‘wild’ camping.
On the road again, Bron happily driving Boudie, Mart wielding the compass and keeping a eye on the scant directional information being offered by “Ethel”, whilst marking off way points on the map as pre-determined, Richard in tow.
Kilometres of road ahead – well maintained – too bad about the strewn litter/household refuse dumped for equal measure of kilometres along the route! En route we stopped at Mezzouma’s General Dealer for some supplies – Martin discovered that the fridge in the Disco was unplugged! Lessons learned along the way.
Enjoyed some great coffee on the road-side with ‘hubbly-bubbly’ young men, and donkey carts driven by bent, old, cloaked men and women. Many sun-dried people shuffling about their day. Very 3rd world – seemingly very happy.
Vistas of lovely colours, gentle hues – muted browns, blues, violet horizon. Noted how widely the olive trees were planted apart – to allow maximum water per tree in this very dry, desert land.
Lunched again under the shade of a tree – no sooner had the brew boiled, than an old, faded, blue Peugeot motor bike pitched up in the searing heat of the day – we were greeted with a huge, stained-tooth smile and offered 2 large cucumbers, still crusted by the earth as gifts. Back on his bike he disappeared into the day. The cucumbers were quickly washed off, peeled (as advised to do in Africa) and added to our bread and cheese lunch – absolutely delicious and refreshing. Soon after this another
faded blue moped arrived, with an equally large and happy smile – off the bike, much hand shaking and greetings and off the 2nd man went – we got to realise this was the way of the Tunisian.
Tozeur was our next stop – camping in an oasis. As the holiday period was over we once again had the camp site to ourselves – a good thing as the ablutions are so dirty and basic, sharing these facilities with crowds would be quite a challenge!
An early start – Richard coughing and wheezing with a cold, Bronnie feeling physically peculiar, with Martin trying to keep the team together in the hope of some 4x4 practice in the dunes.
After a strong ‘Tunisienne’ coffee amidst the white clad locals, we headed towards where we thought the dunes were, landing up in the vast, very marshy salt pans. Rich tried to do a u-turn on the salt pans and sank instantly and deeply into the very soft, salty earth. Boudie to the rescue winching Tasca out, we turned around only for Boudie to spin her tyres in the salty sand. Lesson learnt, we headed for more solid sand and found some “moguls” to play on.
This then the next 4x4 sand lesson for Bron, who took to the challenge and loved the feeling of using the vehicle to do what it was designed to do. Much dust was generated all round, winching and towing of both vehicles as one by one we got stuck at various points. Boys, and girls with their toys – these boys, and girl, were doing what they came here to do.
Back in town we went directly to the cave-bar we’d been to the night before to purchase a bottle of red wine, and quaffed a couple of icy beers in the very cool cave interior – anything to escape the heat of the day – now 43 degrees.
Dinner was taken at a local Tunisienne restaurant, recommended by a local. Ageau a la Galgoulette served in pottery bowl which had been sealed by mashed potatoe to ensure the most tender lamb and veggies – simply more-ish.
Day 25: Monday 13 September 2010 – Tunisia: Megda
A vivid linear sunrise, spread tight across the vast desert-scape, lured us to an early start at 05h00. Whilst busy packing up tents etc., we were once again surprised by the seemingly instantaneous arrival of a nomadic horseman, sporting a poncho and sombrero on a white mare! On closer inspection, his appearance confirmed his nomadic life style. It was quite an amazing incidence so early in the day. He greeted us, scrutinised our camp and headed back in the direction from which he had come, clearly to report to the village elders.
Later, in conversation with Mike (of Greyton), we were offered advice based on his many years of working in Africa - that being, to avoid at all costs, trying to be ‘invisible’ (or independent) but rather to always seek out the ‘elders’ in a village before setting up camp. The advice was d
uly discussed and agreed on unanimously for all future ‘wild’ camping.On the road again, Bron happily driving Boudie, Mart wielding the compass and keeping a eye on the scant directional information being offered by “Ethel”, whilst marking off way points on the map as pre-determined, Richard in tow.
Kilometres of road ahead – well maintained – too bad about the strewn litter/household refuse dumped for equal measure of kilometres along the route! En route we stopped at Mezzouma’s General Dealer for some supplies – Martin discovered that the fridge in the Disco was unplugged! Lessons learned along the way.
Enjoyed some great coffee on the road-side with ‘hubbly-bubbly’ young men, and donkey carts driven by bent, old, cloaked men and women. Many sun-dried people shuffling about their day. Very 3rd world – seemingly very happy.
Vistas of lovely colours, gentle hues – muted browns, blues, violet horizon. Noted how widely the olive trees were planted apart – to allow maximum water per tree in this very dry, desert land.
Lunched again under the shade of a tree – no sooner had the brew boiled, than an old, faded, blue Peugeot motor bike pitched up in the searing heat of the day – we were greeted with a huge, stained-tooth smile and offered 2 large cucumbers, still crusted by the earth as gifts. Back on his bike he disappeared into the day. The cucumbers were quickly washed off, peeled (as advised to do in Africa) and added to our bread and cheese lunch – absolutely delicious and refreshing. Soon after this another
faded blue moped arrived, with an equally large and happy smile – off the bike, much hand shaking and greetings and off the 2nd man went – we got to realise this was the way of the Tunisian.Tozeur was our next stop – camping in an oasis. As the holiday period was over we once again had the camp site to ourselves – a good thing as the ablutions are so dirty and basic, sharing these facilities with crowds would be quite a challenge!
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