Day 9: Saturday 28 August 2010 – Rodez to Albi
Now we are tourists – ‘Ethel’ took us on a mystery tour of the Aveyron region, looking for wine estates and chateaux. En route we discovered a ‘tres bon’ traditional small village restaurant– and what a treat! Plat du Jour was 4 courses of traditional faire – Bronnie tried duck for the first time ever, and is a definite convert. Lush! Waiters like ‘Manuel’ from Faulty Towers, but so friendly, happy and helpful.
On paying the l’addition, Bronnie ever curious, asked the lady at the bar for places to go and things to do. Her English was pretty good, and she set our sight-seeing schedule for the next 4 days, starting with a trip to Albi after lunch. We are ever grateful as we could have missed these ancient town gems.
Albi, located on the Tarn river, is in the heart of the Aveyron region – ‘the Pink Pearl of Languedoc’ with splendid displays of medieval and renaissance architecture. Also the home of Henri Toulouse-Lautrec, born into high nobility in 1864.
Many architectural delights in the greater Albi, including the old Pont-Neuf red brick bridge dating back to the 11th century and the grand red brick Cathedral Sainte-Cecile. Never seen anything as majestic! “The buildings of the cathedral close form one of the greatest groupings of brick monuments in the world. The close is dominated by two imposing monuments: the Sainte –Cecile cathedral and the old bishops’ palace fortress, the Palais de la Berbie”.
Day 10: Sunday 29 August 2010 – Rodez to Cordes-sur-Ciel
Our day started, as always, with the traditional French Cafe-au-Lait at our now “local Irish style Brasserie” Off to the next place of high recommendation – Cordes-sur-Ciel - a really historic, beautiful fortified village built around a mountain.
Windy road down to a gorgeous, old little village in the valley – Pont de Cirou -which had an ancient little stone bridge crossing the river. Met a happy, young couple who pointed us to the end of the river road for a local lunch. Sadly it was booked to the hilt with locals, so we trekked back up hill towards Cordes-Sur-Ciel.
Cold G ‘n T’s and lunch at a local Cafe on the pavement at the bottom of the hill of this old fortified village– our ‘garcon’ Pierre, ex Parisian, was characteristically wonderful and equally informative about other places to see in the region. Oh for the time to just keep travelling and exploring magic places ....
We wound our way up the steep, cobbled maize of narrow roads to the top of Cordes – a wonderful afternoon of exploring an ancient world. Amethyst gifts delighted though Bronnie and Martin lost Richard for a time, only to reconnect again at the bottom of the hill. An espresso later, we took the train back up the hill. Martin discovered a wonderful roof top eatery – Les Terrasses-sur-Ciel – with a ‘forever panorama’ of the region. Les Terrasses is run by a ‘gentle’ man from Reunion, so, much sharing of stories, and savouring of local faire to while away the evening.
As conversation would have it, Martin chatted to a lovely lady, Pia, who has travelled parts of northern Africa – she was wonderful in linking us to Jerome, who has Bryn-type-Landy contacts close by. Martin and Richard may call on her tomorrow from the garage.... wonderful how the universe works J
Day 11: Monday 30 August 2010 – Rodez to Sauverterre de Rouergue
Nominated one of the most beautiful, old,( 13th century) fortified villages in France – at first we were disappointed, but wandering from the large main square to the quaint little church into the maize of lanes, we understood why this little village has a place in the hearts of travellers. Enjoyed drinks and a happy supper (of duck) in a little bar run by a youngster who was born in the village, and who married the woman of his dreams from Morocco.
Day 12: Tuesday 31st August 2010 – Rodez
A day catching up with ourselves, Cafe-au-Lait in town, grocery shopping etc. A slow day with a yummy prawn and couscous veggie stir fry cooked by the gang at our camp site.
The afternoon we piled into our little white Peugeot and headed to the garage to check up on Boudie. Great news! A little problem of a broken and shifted synchromesh spring in the gear box. Bryn said it would be something little!. Carlos, our enthusiastic Portuguese mechanic, who is so excited to be working on 40 year old Boudie, has ordered the little part – it arrives Thursday from Paris.
It’s good news for the team. This evening we’ll have a team meeting to re-plan the route and re-book the ferry. We have been delayed for 3 weeks now, and for various reasons are chomping at the bit to hit Africa!
