Day 39: Monday 27 September 2010 – Algeria: Tamanrasset
Another very warm day at our beautiful desert Gite. When we headed for bed last night, it was 30 degrees! Sleeping outside on a colourful hand-made Niger stretcher under a mosie net proved too hot for comfort, but the heat of the day soon initiated the welcome zzz’d.
10am this morning saw us back at the Niger Consulate with Claudia – we were ushered straight into the Vice Consulate whom we’d seen yesterday. A gentle man, genuinely sorry about our situation - he advised that the consulate would issue our visas on the proviso that we had police security to drive from the Algerian border to Arliet - 230km from the border (where the kidnappings took place). Of course we have no choice but to agree to this, for our safety. He also informed us that the big heads of the various armies (Chef d’etat Major) from Algeria, Mali, Mauritania and Niger had had their meeting extended – they have so far agreed that individually and collectively they need to be proactive about protecting their citizens and tourists. A no brainer we say!
In the interim, our visa applications have been handed in, and the enquiry is under way to ascertain whether the consulate can ensure a police escort once in Niger. We’ll use this afternoon and tomorrow then to catch up on back-logged chores (like the website), and to get ready for a 2 day camel train into the Sahara dunes with a Bedouin guide, whilst waiting to hear about the possibility of a police escort in Niger.
A note to our family, friends, new friends and donors to the SOS Village:
In the heat of the afternoon Richard and Martin are working in the shade of the carport on the vehicles, will go to town to get a shock absorber welded and a puncture fixed, whilst I, Bronnie, work feverishly on the website which I am desperately lagging behind on, due to the past couple of days being focused on police, gendarmerie, visa demands and changing guides. Not forgetting that whilst travelling through the desert, writing up the website and editing photos is impossible.... so we apologise for the erratic updates. And of course, when all the writing and photos are ready for despatching to Rene and Steve, often we can’t find an internet cafe! Rene and Steve – again, thanks for your patience, and your fast action once you receive updates. We really value what you are doing for our trip by updating our website and Bron’s blog.
Day 38: Sunday 26 September 2010 – Algeria: Tamanrasset – Gite Saharien
Once again, the streets of Tamanrasset are deserted whilst being tightly monitored by the military and local police. The reason being that a vital meeting had been called in Tamanrasset today between the heads of the various armies (Chef d’etat Major) from Algeria, Mali, Mauritania and Niger. The meeting is being held and headed up in Algeria, which precludes the French being present.
The gathering has been called to discuss the volatile situation of the recent 7 engineers kidnapped in Niger, and how to form a unified approach against terrorism in general (bandits as well as Al Qaida).
As a result of the high powered military meeting, we weren’t sure if we’d get near the consulate. But, with our newly acquired translator (Claudia) in tow, we arrived at the Niger Consulate just before 10h00, to join the chaotic queue of people trying to acquire visas, or get their passports back. Mohammed arrived with a ‘translator’ to assist us – turned out he couldn’t speak a word of English!!! We were more perplexed than ever.
Fortunately Claudia has had loads of experience in her years of living in Tam as a tour operator. And luckily for us, she speaks French, English and Arabic fluently. We were sitting in the dirt in the shade with Claudia and Mohammed waiting to be called by one of Claudia’s contacts. She commands huge respect here in spite of the fact that she is a lone white woman in a Muslim dominated town. Suddenly Claudia bolted from her sandy, shady position, when she saw the previous applicant come out of the building. It wasn’t long before she got her foot (literally) in the one and only door at the consulate – which by the way, is a shabby, small building on sandy grounds, with a tiny window where people crowd to get their applications in, and passports out.
We watched in amusement and awe, as next thing Claudia was almost fully in the doorway and then the door clanged shut – she had managed to get inside the consulate. No mean feat indeed! Next thing Claudia was at the door beckoning us to hurry in – she had secured an unscheduled appointment with the Vice-Consulate.
We were ushered into a tiny office to talk with a very kind man from Niger, who explained to Claudia that he was very sorry about our situation, and the political instability in Niger. Much discussion was held back and forth between the man and Claudia, with intermittent translations. He agreed to find out if it would be feasible for us to apply for visas for Niger, and asked us to return the next day at 10h00 directly to him. Whilst he didn’t offer a light for us, he didn’t put any negative thoughts into the equation either.
15h30 saw us heading back into Tam with Claudia to meet Mohamed at the gendarmerie (regional security police). Security protocol demands an official hand over of tourists from one guide to another – this little procedure took another 2 hours out of our day.
In a wrap of our time spent so far in Tamanrasset: we arrived Thursday afternoon – checked in at the gendarmerie, then the camp site. Friday hung around whilst Mohamed did the Sabbath. Saturday through various contacts we met up with Claudine (high light of our time here). Packed up at our dust bowl camp site and moved to her Gite taking her on as our new guide.
Sunday morning we spent 2 hours at the Niger Consul, and 2 hours at the gendarmerie in the afternoon. Lots of hanging around waiting to see what could happen.
Our day ended by sharing a traditional Tuareg dinner – Taguelle. A hot coal fire (made from wood) is made in the sand. The sand has to be very hot to hold and bake a large and substantial Taguelle (a dense bread made from fine Semolina). The raw Taguelle is placed in a shallow hollow, and covered with sand and coals where it is left to bake. To test the readiness of the Taguelle, a stick is used to tap the sand – the sound yields the readiness of the bread, which is then removed from the fire and earth and washed in a bowl of water till all the sand is removed. The bread is then broken into small pieces and placed at the bottom of a large traditional (communal) wooden bowl. On top of the Taguelle pieces of succulent roasted lamb are layered, followed by a fresh marrow and tomato vegetable sauce which the lamb was cooked in. YUMMY!!
30degrees at 23h00 – it’s a pretty warm place Tamanrasset.
Day 37: Saturday 25 September 2010 – Algeria: Tamanrasset
Mohammed left us alone once again with no explanation of where he was going, or how he would/could help us – this was exceedingly frustrating as we were stuck in a backstreet dust-bowl of a camp site, no freedom to travel around and not speaking the local language.
A priority team talk was held and a plan of action established. Most critical for us in light of the Niger circumstances, and a guide who could not speak our language, was to find an English speaking person, preferably someone in tourism.
Through Celine, a contact in Niamey (Niger), we were put in touch with Claudia, a Swiss English speaking lady who runs a Gite and desert tourist business on the outskirts of Tamanrasset.
We spent a good couple of hours sitting in her delightful, serene space on the edge of the desert. Claudia was horrified that we had been travelling through Algeria. She advised us that tourism had been closed since March due to various kidnappings, and that tourists were not welcome in Algeria. She was astounded that the agency Martin had worked through in Switzerland had encouraged our plans, and taken our booking. She was equally surprised that the Niger embassy in Brussels had advised we would have no problem getting a Niger visa in Tamanrasset.
We felt relieved to have “found” someone we could talk to, and who was informed. She was also very likeable. It didn’t take us long (actually, right there and then) to agree to move to Gite Saharien, and we’d recommend it to anyone wanting to do a real desert experience in the south of Algeria – www.taghant.com. (PIC) Landscape from the top
Earlier we had agreed to rendezvous with Mohamed at 3pm, so headed back to camp to pack up and tell him about our changes. Needless to say Mohamed hadn’t pitched up by 16h15 (we were learning about African time fast) so we left him a note and we left the dreaded dust- bowl camp site for ‘paradise’ and our English speaking guide.
Day 36: Friday 24 September 2010 – Algeria: Tamanrasset – our journey in jeopardy
It is the Sabbath – our wonderful desert guide Mohamed, has had a personality change now that he is in the city of Tamanrasset. This has had a major impact on our situation here for a number of reasons. The day was used therefore to work on the cars and kit and generally slow down after our desert travels.
Whilst Mohamed ‘deserted’ us for the day (remember we are high paying clients), to go to Mosque and spend the day with his local friends/family (this without discussion with us), we had to figure out somehow, what our options were with regards:
1. Being able to get a visa for Niger
2. The possibility of being able to travel through Niger, given the recent
kidnapping of 7 French engineers (there is ongoing bandit activity in northern Niger).
The engineers were kidnapped from a town called Arlit in Niger 10 days ago. On Wednesday Al Qaida claimed responsibility. Prior to that, it was thought that local bandits in Niger had kidnapped the group of engineers.
As a result, the area from Assamakka to Arlit (240km’s) in Niger is very militarily active. All military and police personnel are focused on finding the hostages. This makes us attaining a compulsory escort for this route almost impossible. The impact to us completing our route therefore becomes very challenging, if at all, as we can't enter any other country (apart from Tunisia), as all borders between Algeria and neighbouring countries are closed to us, apart from (possibly)Mauritania, and we don’t have a visa for Mauritania.
At dinner the night before, Bron had arranged with Mohamed’s nephew, Habib, to fetch us from our dusty campsite late morning, to enable Bronnie to skype Mike in Greyton (back up support was needed given the recent changes in Niger and our precarious situation with security heading south, as well as non-availability of visas).
Whilst there, we experienced genuine Algerian hospitality in the wonderful cool of their large lounge, which was traditionally decorated by colourful “mattresses” laid around the walls of the room. Shoes and worries left outside in the heat, we used our bits of French, and their bits of English, to form a rapport, whilst devouring Shokshoka, a traditional dish of onion, mild peppers, tomatoes and eggs, served with very fresh bread and sweet-bitter tea. A small, round, low table was placed on the floor where the Shokshoka was served – it is custom to eat communally off a platter. Bron was so impressed with the delicious Shokshoka, that the group’s young (13 year old) ‘interpreter’ Sharief, challenged Bron to make it herself – “it’s simple” he said. So it was arranged to return in the evening for a lesson with Sharief’s mother, Fatima. (PIC)
Returning to the family’ home that evening was both heart warming and disturbing. Habib’s mother Fatima (from the Tuareg tribe), had the ingredients set out on a small table – she pulled up a small wooden bench – indicated to Bronnie to sit, and started the Shokshoka cookery lesson. She was intent on learning English and teaching Bron Arabic, so young Sharief translated and giggled delightfully through the process whilst the young daughter stood with her hand on Bron’s shoulder, eager to be part of the process.
As culture has it here, she is a girl, so she prepares food, carries it back and forth and cleans the kitchen. With guests at the house, she is not able to participate in the interaction. This provoked some uneasy thoughts for Bronnie specifically, being an independent, thinking, western women.
Leaving their home, we questioned the conditioning of different religions and cultures and looked at the western world. Neither seemed to have the mix right – the western world is materialistic and families are largely fragmented and societies are often dysfunctional, whereas by contrast, the Islamic families have close bonds, and in a way, healthier lives without the distraction of alcohol, but then the girls and women are not treated equally. Things worth serious discussion and reflection for the times we are living in.
Day 35: Thursday 23 September 2010 – Algeria: Assekrem - Tamanrasset
At first light it was cool up in the mountains with a welcome cool breeze. Martin and Bron were up early to climb the mountain again, to visit the monks whom we hadn’t managed to see the night before. Half way up Bronnie had to turn back due her chest being so tight from the cold she’d been struggling with through the desert. Martin on making the top met Edward, one of the two monks living the quiet life amongst the tranquillity. Edward, a gentle, peaceful being has lived in the hermitage for the past 40 years. He showed Martin around his small abode, chapel, workshop and museum. This was a very moving experience for Martin who returned to the lodge very pensive.
Back on the mountain road we stopped to see and greet a Chevaux herder, who was strapping up his camel. The serenity and resilience of these nomads is tangible. As westerners we have a huge amount we could learn from them.
We headed down onto an enormous plateau, where in the middle of no-where, a stream flowed creating pools and ponds. Quite incredible! At this place lived a man with his gorgeous, shy son, who was the young nomadic shepherd for a large herd of goats and a few camels. The father manages the Park National – we’re not sure what he actually does, as there is nothing there – no office, booking facility, telephone, campsite, bungalows. It is the deepest most beautiful desert park.
We watched a camel train pass close by, being led by a nomad clad in a Damask blue tissernest. He sauntered along looking so cool. It is so very obvious - everyone, everything, every animal is in its perfect time and place here. It provoked many thoughts and questions including ‘what are we so busy with in the western world? What is our purpose? Do we ever really give it any purposeful thought? It would seem we don’t, otherwise surely we would radically adjust our life styles.
Once on the challenging road again the Disco broke a shock absorber bracket and 15 minutes later Boudie go a rear puncture. Fortunately the wind was cool as Richard, Martin and Mohamed tinkered with various parts to get us back on track.
We arrived in Tamanrasset mid afternoon. But first we had to be cleared at the gendarmerie.
Then Mohamed took us to a dreary campsite – had we known, we would surely have spent another night at Assekrem! But no, actually we had to be here to arrange our Niger visas.
Later we met up with Mohamed’s nephew who could speak a little English – we headed for a traditional restaurant, or so we thought – a fast food pizzeria – we were so disappointed – our wonderful desert guide had changed in a couple of hours – we’d lost touch with him somehow. We think it’s the city that did it to Mohammed.
Day 34: Wednesday 22 September 2010 – Algeria: Assekrem
Late start – we need to consolidate and condense our gear!! Less is more! Quite a challenge considering we have prepped for every possibility of weather and conditions over a 3 month trip in varying terrains in Africa.
We headed back into the mountains for some extreme off-roading after stopping at a village at the top of a mountain 2750m high. Even so high up, in such a remote place we encountered yet another police block – at least further south they were becoming more engaging. Further on and higher up, we stopped again at the cleanest date-palm frond tea house, which sold basic commodities. It was amazing to see this at the top of the mountain, in the middle of the mountain range, and to find such an enterprising youngster. This small place offered wonderful respite from the heat, and of course, the traditional sweet-bitter tea. (PIC – martins camera).
The next thing an old Landy pulled up with 3 laughing lads transporting more date-palm fronds, to be used for an extension to the ‘building’. Heat is no inhibitor of laughter and joy here.
It is very difficult to describe the immense landscape. On one side of the road it looks very burnt - volcanic with huge volumes of shattered rocks stacked everywhere , kilometres of mesa, sand and granite mountains as a dramatic back drop, fading on forever, and ever. So high up, so hot – the views today are clear and infinite.We’re amazed that there is a ‘road’ up here – well, it’s a rather extreme boulder road, but never the less it is a road of sorts. It took us 8 hours to traverse 87km. Nomads, camels, goats dot the landscape. And yes, there are places with water. It’s incredible.
The other side of the road looks like an alluvial lunar landscape. There are enormous gullies, water in places and gargantuan black rocks which resemble hippos baking in the sun.
Endless vistas keep folding back on one another till the eye can no longer discern shape from hue. And still it stretches out – Algeria – the great Sahara. Desert is where the soul is finally at peace – where there is no push, or pull, from life.
Savannahs of stone and rock – zillions of them. A beautiful, barren, boulder landscape. We look down into an enormous escarpment and some green shrub land, with donkeys, camels and nomad ‘dwellings’ dotted around. We feel like we’re in a huge volcanic crater. And again, we are humbled by our surrounds. We have never, ever been in such a mind blowing place where desert is sand, is rock, is granite, is mountainous, is forever.
Martin and Richard enjoyed the technical 4x4 challenge at hand and loved the opportunity to use their off roading skills – well done guys – you used the Landy’s to full purpose.
Our guide Mohamed is a man of the desert – he walks the talk 100%. He inspires not only us – as we travel he is revered by those who know him along the way, and there are many. We are humbled to be with him in this immense, pristine place.
We arrived at our next stop at the top of the mountains – Assekrem in the Park National de la Region - just in time for a breath taking sunset over the myriad folds of mountains and endless vistas. (PIC)
Bronnie and Martin climbed to the top of the mountain – 2739m - guided by the bright moon light. We walked to see the once home of the Hermitage de Pierre de Foucauld. There are currently 2 monks living in stone cabins atop the mountain.
The air was warm, one day to full moon. We walked in a beautiful light with receding colours which still held vivid red hues. Then the evening star appeared, followed by myriad others.
We spent the night at the Assekrem – a very humble stone building with little water and no toilets (well, useable ones that is). We ‘retired’ to the cool of the lounge, which had a single piece of wood burning in the fire place to brew the traditional Touareg tea. 
Shoes left outside, we sat on colourful cushions and were gently served a communal plate of traditional ‘la goudie’ (couscous soup, couscous, vegetable and Chameau). Mohamed in his rich robe filled the room with his quiet greatness. Our delicious meal was followed by a melon we’d been carrying for a while which had broken in half in the back of Boudie, due to the terrain on the way up. We were also served the ultimate desert dessert – fat, juicy figs. Our senses were soaring and satiated in every sense of the word.