We’ve spent a week at Gite Saharien, a desert lodge in Tamanrasset, southern Algeria. As comfortable and welcoming it is, and as warm and friendly a host as Claudia may be – it is not where we want to be. Our enforced stay is thanks to the recent activities of bandit and terrorist activities in neighbouring Niger, and past kidnapping activities in Algeria, which apparently have security on high alert.
This impacts our objective of creating awareness and raising funds for the SOS Children's Villages, Africa, en route from the UK-SA. Our overland journey included our commitment to visit an SOS Village in Lilongwe, Malawi – the village we are specifically raising funds for.
As already mentioned in our earlier web writings, whilst making our way south through Algeria, we heard that seven French engineers had been kidnapped near Arlit, one of our way points en route to Agadez, Niger. Whilst concerned, we couldn't anticipate the disruption this was about to have on our plans.
This recent kidnapping and prior anti-governmental activities resulted in Algerian security being further tightened, beyond the rigidity we knew of and expected before our arrival. Over three days last week a meeting was held in Tamanrasset, of senior representatives from Algeria, Mali, Niger, and Mauritania. Collectively they all agreed 'to co-operate and work together' to restore 'normality' – whatever that may be, as we are not aware of any barometer of normality out here. An outcome of the meeting agreed that all borders with Niger, Mali and Mauritania are closed to Europeans travelling by road. Additionally European road travellers throughout Algeria henceforth have to have a police escort wherever they go. Already we have been told not to drive around on our own by the Director of Tourism. We are constantly reminded these measures are for our safety!!
Through a contact in Niamey, we were fortunate to meet with Claudia. The past week has been spent making numerous phone calls to amongst others, the Niger consulate in Tamanrasset, travel agencies, Claudia’s colleagues in travel both here and in the north as well as the RAC in the UK to issue new carnets. All things being equal we will pick these up in Tripoli, Libya.
A special mention goes to Sam Rutherford of ‘Prepare2Go’ in Belgium, who was instrumental in assisting us select optional routes.
With Claudia's good English and her many contacts in tourism, we secured a direct meeting with the Niger Vice Commissioner. We are extremely grateful to the Niger Vice Commissioner for being so empathic and helpful, whilst at the same time being cognisant of our safety. Unfortunately as Niger was unable to arrange a police escort from Assamaka to Arlit in Niger we have had to change our plans, and our route.
Our preferred option at this stage is to head back north through Taleb Larbi into Tunisia (and hopefully collect our bino’s and CB radios from customs), as from Tunisia we could travel the north coast into Libya and Egypt. That entails, not just the high cost of taking vehicles into Egypt, but travelling the length of Sudan – not a good option at this stage due to the current unsettled political situation in the north right. Also we would need to secure another Tunisian visa for Bron, as well as Libyan, Egyptian and Sudanese for all of us.
Day 42: Thursday 30 September 2010 – Algeria: Tahassa desert
“Happy birthday!” drifts a whisper in the night as Bronnie moved around her mat, securing a cover to sleep under, as the wind gently picked up. It was well after midnight when the greeting came from Martin who was lying not too far away under the stars.
“Yep, it was my 50th birthday. I was mesmerised by the light of the night and the zillions of sparkling stars above, which was our heavenly tarpaulin. And I wondered where else in the world I could be that would celebrate my birthday as magically as being in this immense and inspiring place they call the Sahara! And I recalled the wonderful words from the writing Desiderata: Go placidly amidst the noise and haste, and remember what peace there may be in silence!” And I welcomed the silence, this tranquil place.
When one has a sleepless night, there is surely no better place to be sleepless than in the desert – gentle wind sounds, the odd snore, the soft occasional padding of a camel. Silence! Peace! Contentment!
Up before the sun, we started a minimal desert fire for our morning brew. The surrounding rocks and mountains gradually turned from pink to red. Whilst our guides packed up camp we scampered back up the huge boulders for individual solitude and a last ‘drink’ of the magnificent 360 degree vistas.
Watching the cameleer round up our train of camels, we were again reminded of the simplicity of their lives, and the inherent contentment they visibly displayed in their everyday actions.
Our route today took us through very hot, very dry and very distressed mountainous areas. Again we noted how perfectly adapted the camel’s foot is for varying terrains. Downhill they pause to assess the ground before “changing down” to 2nd gear. Where terrain is loose, they revert to “4x4 low range”. It is a comfortable and efficient mode of transport for this environment, and fully connects the rider to the earth.
Another midday break and lunch stop under a large, beautiful desert Arcacia tree offering welcome relief from the sun – this, in a very wide and dry river bed dotted with beautiful Camel Thorn trees. Later, once the camels were re-saddled we trekked “up stream” over the most magnificent polished granite river bed heading home to our Gite.
Bron’s birthday celebrations were not over as phone calls came through on Claudia’s cell phone whilst Martin, Claudia and young Younes set about preparing a surprise dinner, avec gateau, which we shared under the stars. It was the perfect way to end a big birthday celebration. “Heartfelt thanks to you all for making this day special.”
Message from Bronnie to friends and family in SA: “Thank you to each one of you who sent sms greetings or messages via Mike, and for laughter filled telephone calls – being so far away from my special friends and loved ones, it was like gold every time a message came through or the phone rang.”
Day 41: Wednesday 29 September 2010 – Algeria: Into the desert
Early rise, quick breakfast and into the desert with Claudia to join up with our train of 7 camels (chameaux) – our transport and means of survival for the next 2 days and nights.
We met the train and our cameleer on the outskirts of Tamanrasset on the edge of the great Adrienne mountains (not unlike Table mountain and the south table of Table mountain, but much larger). The camels we used are “stork” Dromadairs (long legged) – they only have one hump, which one sits in front of, and are smaller than camels with 2 humps.
These animal are very elegant and silent in their movement. As they move they seem to hover over the terrain, and are adapted for any topography. Their large feet have 2 toes and look “gel-like” resembling a deflated 4x4 tyre. Their soft gel feet have elephant like soles which make for effortless crossing of soft sand.
It was amusing to watch Richard and Martin atop the chameaux as they un-folded their long legs to get up – back legs unfold first pushing their rear ends high into the air, before their front legs unfold– it can be disconcerting for one who is not very core balanced!
Bronnie felt quiet at home on her ‘beast’ and happy as an eagle to be walking through such a unspoiled place. I guess that equals the playing field with regards current 4x4 skills and riding a camel – Girls are Greatest!
Sometime later, the cameleer manages to find the glorious shade of a group of Arcacia trees and everything is unloaded for Tuareg tea to be prepared over the smallest of fires. In the same fire, economically, a Taguella (dough) is gently laid and covered with soil and flaming branches. The heat of the day keeps escalating so the shady rest is welcome. After the refreshing tea, a Touareg-style lunch is served on the carpet, followed by the Taguella with curried lentils and vegetables. This platter was shared by us all – including our cameleer, ‘chef’, and their nomadic friends whom they’d met up with, in the traditional Algerian way.
Back on our chameaux, we continued our journey through various landscapes – all as beautiful, rugged and majestic as the previous geography we’d passed. Our train travelled through two enormous rock formations into a circular plateau fortressed by awesome rock formations, where we set up camp for the night. Whilst our guides proceeded to gather bits of wood and unsaddle the chameaux, we started climbing the various crags to gain maximum advantage of the magnificent vistas as the sun slowly started dipping. It was, frankly, breath taking.
The camels front legs are tethered together to stop them wandering away during the night. This enables them to set out to forage to their hearts content till they are bought back together in the morning. It was interesting to note that as our little group started settling for the night, nearly all the camels returned to be near the fire and settled into sitting positions.
A big fire was made to prepare the ritual tea and Taguella, which was served with a simple but delicious vegetable sauce.
The quiet is piercing. It is magnificent. The moon which is ¾’s full is as bright as a million candles but somehow doesn’t affect the brilliance of the canopy of stars which keep emerging. The natural light high-lights the grandeur of the landscape we are in. Again we realise how privileged we are to be experiencing this.
An early 50th birthday celebration for Bron is enjoyed around the fire with rhythmic Tuareg singing completing our experience of a magic day.
Day 40: Tuesday 28 September 2010 – Algeria: Gite Saharien
Most of today spent frenetically writing up backlogs of website / blog.
(Yes Ren/Steve, we are on top of it as and when time and place allow, and then of course when we can find an internet cafe which works, and which has a keyboard which is not in Arabic).
These are just some of the challenges of travel one doesn’t consider prior to travelling in foreign places. On completion of the most current website / blog updates, we went in search of a working internet cafe – no go!
We heard today that there is absolutely no way we can get a visa to Niger, as there are no security police or military available to escort us – refer to 1 October writing for more information on the situation in Algeria and surrounding countries.
Back to team talk, with Claudia included, to discuss the various options going forward. We are heading out on camels into the mountainous region of the great Sahara tomorrow – time and open vistas will encourage space for reflection, scenario planning and absolute relaxation.
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