Day 33: Tuesday 21 September 2010 – Algeria: Tadjemout –Ti- n-Akker
Deep in the Sahara, with a consistent, hot air wind blowing it was a restless, sweaty night with Tasca’s alarm being activated a couple of times, followed by a string of expletives from Richard.
We were back on the desert road again by 07h30. The “vastness of this vast place” is almost incomprehensible. Open plains, high distressed rock mountains, little greenery. We were doing 90% desert driving, and Bronnie was in her element using her new skills.
Mid morning, in the midst of heat and sand and open road ahead, Moha
med pulls up at an oasis which has a fresh water spring and trough to “plunge” into. Without the camel and goat trough, but it looked clean and we were all very hot. Next thing a nomad arrives out of nowhere – with Mohamed they made a tiny fire, pulled out the tea bag and brewed some Algerian sweet-bitter tea – very refreshing and energising, which was accompanied by some sweet melon.
Under the shade of the one and only Acacia tree (which is actually marked on the topographical map!) Martin and Mohamed discussed where we were heading
Bron had ascertained that Mohamed’s friend was a true nomad, herding goats. She wanted to meet his family and children which our nomad was only too happy to do, so we piled into Boudie and were directed over the land to where his wife, children and some other woman were ensconced in the shade of a small tree, under a fabric tarp, with the Tuareg tea constantly on the brew, with goats and kid goats close by.
We were invited to share their shade and each offered a small glass of this unusual tea. Some descriptive pics were taken and much gesticulating as we tried to talk to them, and to specifically engage the girls. Richard pulled out his sugar trick which worked for the kids. This is the simplest, harshest life surely but these people not only survive, they thrive. And they are healthy and obviously knowing no other life, they are content.
We journeyed on through the vast and magnificent desert-scapes finally pulling off the path onto a large open plain surrounded by mountains. It felt like we were on top of the world and we were honoured with a bright, nearly full moon.
Camp set up, dinner done, we joined Mohamed for a moonlit walk to the edge of the world. It is silent in the desert. It is stark, beautiful and spiritual. And it is truly a privilege to be in such a place. All the police stress of the past days just faded away – this was what we had come here for.
Day 32: Monday 20 September 2010 – Algeria: In Salah - Tadjemout
Back into In Salah to change guides, pick up Mohamed and his English!
We read travellers collective comments in the Tanzerouft Agencies guest book in the office, which confirmed our collective thoughts about Algeria so far – police control, tourists unwelcome, why are we here?
The police control everything with an iron fist and most unfriendly, yet we’re told it’s for our own good!! (It is a police dictatorship state after all – what were we thinking we’re wondering by now?).
All we have done is drive from the border to In Salah – 1,200 km’s; prevented from seeing the archaeological sights we came to see, the desert we came to experience, the people we came to meet. Little local interaction and few photographs – overall very frustrating and disappointing.
Over coffee in a square we started chatted to a youngster who had studied at university in Alger, and who spoke good English. He mentioned he’d love to live in London, learn the language and gain experience, but he is trapped here as it’s so difficult to earn decent money (most jobs are offered in the police, gendarmerie or the post office). He said the government is reflective of a very successfully controlled country keeping westerners out and Algerians blissfully ignorant. He said trying to leave In Salah is nigh impossible – there are 200 odd plain clothes police watching everyone constantly, only 2 internet cafe’s keeping outside influences out and communications minimal.
1.15pm – 80k’s on in 50 degrees – only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in this heat!! Just past another major armoured personnel carrier military base check point, our new guide pulled us over indicating a new direction into huge dunes. We felt the heat and wind blast us as we deflated our tyres to enter the desert. Where we scones, we’d be well ready for eating. Extreme heat! Extreme challenge!
As we approached two large mountain structures with a plateau before us, we noticed 2-3 people on the ridge on the right – other brave travellers? No, the next thing we counted 18 armed military men approaching the lip of the mountain facing us. Three of them came down to greet Mohamed and ascertain what we were doing there – all guns were cocked! What on earth were they expecting? We kept our cool and let Mohamed handle them, whilst looking around we noticed 3 more armed military personnel on the left ridge.
For people reading our web and blog who are based in the Western Cape, this immense and amazing desert range is a combination of the Richtersveld, Fish River and the Cedarburg. The range is over 300km long.
5pm we pulled up in the shade of a tree close to a wide (dry) river bed – we walked for about 30 minutes across the hottest, giant red rocks to a large, deep, emerald rock pool which had pristine water. This in the middle of one of the harshest deserts on earth. 1, 2, 3 – we were all in. It was worth the drive through 50 degrees of wind and heat. This was paradise!
Back on the sand road, we arrived at a plateau in an arid flat glacial valley. The dry heat kept coming as the wind picked up. We set up camp as Mohamed collected wood to make his small fire which would cook his supper and our Touareg tea later. This man is of the desert and it showed tangibly in his spirit, his ways and his quiet calm in the desert. He was where he belonged! And we felt humbled to be there with him.
Deep in the Sahara, with a consistent, hot air wind blowing it was a restless, sweaty night with Tasca’s alarm being activated a couple of times, followed by a string of expletives from Richard.We were back on the desert road again by 07h30. The “vastness of this vast place” is almost incomprehensible. Open plains, high distressed rock mountains, little greenery. We were doing 90% desert driving, and Bronnie was in her element using her new skills.
Mid morning, in the midst of heat and sand and open road ahead, Moha
med pulls up at an oasis which has a fresh water spring and trough to “plunge” into. Without the camel and goat trough, but it looked clean and we were all very hot. Next thing a nomad arrives out of nowhere – with Mohamed they made a tiny fire, pulled out the tea bag and brewed some Algerian sweet-bitter tea – very refreshing and energising, which was accompanied by some sweet melon.Under the shade of the one and only Acacia tree (which is actually marked on the topographical map!) Martin and Mohamed discussed where we were heading
Bron had ascertained that Mohamed’s friend was a true nomad, herding goats. She wanted to meet his family and children which our nomad was only too happy to do, so we piled into Boudie and were directed over the land to where his wife, children and some other woman were ensconced in the shade of a small tree, under a fabric tarp, with the Tuareg tea constantly on the brew, with goats and kid goats close by.
We were invited to share their shade and each offered a small glass of this unusual tea. Some descriptive pics were taken and much gesticulating as we tried to talk to them, and to specifically engage the girls. Richard pulled out his sugar trick which worked for the kids. This is the simplest, harshest life surely but these people not only survive, they thrive. And they are healthy and obviously knowing no other life, they are content.
We journeyed on through the vast and magnificent desert-scapes finally pulling off the path onto a large open plain surrounded by mountains. It felt like we were on top of the world and we were honoured with a bright, nearly full moon.
Camp set up, dinner done, we joined Mohamed for a moonlit walk to the edge of the world. It is silent in the desert. It is stark, beautiful and spiritual. And it is truly a privilege to be in such a place. All the police stress of the past days just faded away – this was what we had come here for.
Day 32: Monday 20 September 2010 – Algeria: In Salah - Tadjemout
Back into In Salah to change guides, pick up Mohamed and his English!
We read travellers collective comments in the Tanzerouft Agencies guest book in the office, which confirmed our collective thoughts about Algeria so far – police control, tourists unwelcome, why are we here?
The police control everything with an iron fist and most unfriendly, yet we’re told it’s for our own good!! (It is a police dictatorship state after all – what were we thinking we’re wondering by now?).
All we have done is drive from the border to In Salah – 1,200 km’s; prevented from seeing the archaeological sights we came to see, the desert we came to experience, the people we came to meet. Little local interaction and few photographs – overall very frustrating and disappointing.
Over coffee in a square we started chatted to a youngster who had studied at university in Alger, and who spoke good English. He mentioned he’d love to live in London, learn the language and gain experience, but he is trapped here as it’s so difficult to earn decent money (most jobs are offered in the police, gendarmerie or the post office). He said the government is reflective of a very successfully controlled country keeping westerners out and Algerians blissfully ignorant. He said trying to leave In Salah is nigh impossible – there are 200 odd plain clothes police watching everyone constantly, only 2 internet cafe’s keeping outside influences out and communications minimal.
1.15pm – 80k’s on in 50 degrees – only mad dogs and Englishmen go out in this heat!! Just past another major armoured personnel carrier military base check point, our new guide pulled us over indicating a new direction into huge dunes. We felt the heat and wind blast us as we deflated our tyres to enter the desert. Where we scones, we’d be well ready for eating. Extreme heat! Extreme challenge!
As we approached two large mountain structures with a plateau before us, we noticed 2-3 people on the ridge on the right – other brave travellers? No, the next thing we counted 18 armed military men approaching the lip of the mountain facing us. Three of them came down to greet Mohamed and ascertain what we were doing there – all guns were cocked! What on earth were they expecting? We kept our cool and let Mohamed handle them, whilst looking around we noticed 3 more armed military personnel on the left ridge.
For people reading our web and blog who are based in the Western Cape, this immense and amazing desert range is a combination of the Richtersveld, Fish River and the Cedarburg. The range is over 300km long.
5pm we pulled up in the shade of a tree close to a wide (dry) river bed – we walked for about 30 minutes across the hottest, giant red rocks to a large, deep, emerald rock pool which had pristine water. This in the middle of one of the harshest deserts on earth. 1, 2, 3 – we were all in. It was worth the drive through 50 degrees of wind and heat. This was paradise!
Back on the sand road, we arrived at a plateau in an arid flat glacial valley. The dry heat kept coming as the wind picked up. We set up camp as Mohamed collected wood to make his small fire which would cook his supper and our Touareg tea later. This man is of the desert and it showed tangibly in his spirit, his ways and his quiet calm in the desert. He was where he belonged! And we felt humbled to be there with him.
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